NOVEMBER 17, 2015
I’d landed in San Francisco and it was my first evening away from my daughter in nearly three years. The first time I left her overnight, it was to fly to California for the world premiere of SOMM at the Napa Valley Opera House. I tend not to take my time away from my child lightly and only seem to leave her for very grand events.
This absence was no exception, and less than an hour after my arrival in the city, I was comfortably seated at Sons & Daughters, ready to enjoy a seven-course meal ~ solo.
No distractions other than those presented by the staff and other diners. How I love food and dining out, and how I have missed that while being the parent of a toddler. Some folks may think it odd to dine alone, but I relish the opportunity to do so. It allows me to fully experience every morsel, every nuance. I was ready.
They started me off with a splash of bubbly. A pleasant little Prosecco. Nice touch.
The restaurant had a wine pairing option, but it didn’t really excite me as it featured a lot of New World options, so my server offered the assistance of the sommelier to help me select a bottle to enjoy over the course of the evening. A young, freshly minted Green Pin named Jeremy ambled over and listened to my query. I wanted a Champagne that was not super expensive but would go well with all the food. He asked if I was willing to try a Riesling instead. Mais oui!
Jeremy directed my attention to a well-priced 2003 from the Mosel, and I agreed to take his recommendation. Having sat the Green Pin exam myself (passing two out of three components), I knew to trust him. I’ve often thought of re-sitting the exam, but as I no longer work the floor, it would only be for personal knowledge. But that’s why people like Jeremy exist – they have studied so I don’t have to; I just need to eat in places they work. Win-win.
My first few courses arrived. A little amuse bouche of a potato croquette here, an egg in a cup there. The wine had not yet appeared. Suddenly, my server brought a different bottle of bubbly over for me to sample. Oh, if you insist then.
An unfamiliar Cava was presented to me, and the two wines I’d tasted thus far were a swift reminder that I wasn’t in BC anymore, with its stilted and antiquated import system that penalizes all who attempt to cross the border to delight the palates of wine lovers.
Eventually Jeremy presented the wine to me, explaining that it was not quite cold and he asked permission to take it away to chill longer after receiving my approval.
The wine was singing already, and I knew I was in for a treat. I had been a bit worried about the vintage, knowing 2003 can be a bit blowsy, but this was beautifully balanced, a nod to my theory that a great winery will make a fine wine even in a poor year.
Black cod, Japanese eggplant, and summer beans, heirloom peppers, avocado & togarashi. The food kept coming, and each course was spectacular. Jeremy interrupted my Mosel love affair to pour me a taste of a California Syrah when it came time for the bavette course, yet another reason to love the fact that a profession such as sommeliers exists and are looking out for our best interests.
This seven-course dinner was actually more like ten courses when one included all of the little interludes, and the wine was a perfect foil for most of it. At 8.5% alcohol, I was able to drink a few glasses over the three hours I was there and not feel the effects too sharply. The meal was outstanding and the service was excellent.
My perch in the corner gave me the opportunity to catch snippets of the neighbouring table’s conversation (all about the inner workings of Obama’s meeting with the Pope) while observing the kitchen crew working their magic.
I cannot afford to dine like this very often, and the punishing exchange rate resulted in this formidable experience garnering the title of the most expensive meal I have ever treated myself to in my life. Once in a decade, to be sure, but embedded in my memory forever.
Thank you, Sons & Daughters.